One of the most important aspectsofsketching the eyebrows is taking your time. I sometimes spend 30 to 45 minutes sketching to find the right placement and shape for the eyebrow. I also explain this to my clients and involve them in the process (as much as possible). I ask what they want or expect, so the client feels that her experience and wishes matter. People are often already nervous about the treatment, and this helps alleviate that uncertainty.

You can mark the outline using measurements, strings, or a template, and this is usually done while your client is lying down with their eyes closed. Next, I have the client sit up, and together we look at facial expressions and symmetry with their eyes open. The visual appearance is very important, so observe what is happening and determine if any corrections are needed. This is the time to make small adjustments within reasonable limits (certainly no major changes) that can make a difference. If corrections are needed, make them now. 

To preserve the shape, you can mark it by placing small dots around the contour of your drawing with a surgical pen so that the shape remains clearly visible during the treatment. 

At the end of the treatment, I check once more to ensure the shape and symmetry are correct while the client is seated.

I use the3-point stretch method during microblading.Tightenthe skin while applying the strokes. Use your thumb, index finger, and pinky of your free hand for this. This results in a crisp, clean stroke!

 

When you start microblading, you’ve practiced on latex and have it down by now. After all, you shouldn’t cross the strokes, which would cause the skin to open up like a wavy line that’s slightly raised.

It can help to sketch the hair strokes with a small brush and pigment or your blade with just a tiny bit of pigment before you really start. This way, you don’t open the skin yet. It also allows you to determine what you’ll do on the front and consult with your client. They’ll feel involved, and it only takes a little extra time. I find it helpful to work with the client to achieve the result this way, so they aren’t shocked when they see the final result.

Providing clear information about what the client can expect is super important!

 

Early in my career, I often went too deep into the skin. This happens quickly, and from experience, I know that’s precisely the art of microblading. It’s all about the “Sweet Spot.” Exactly the right skin layer, with the right pressure, depth, and speed. Bleeding isn’t the only indicator. Some clients bleed easily, while others don’t bleed at all. Be careful and, above all, feel what you’re doing. Go over the stroke as many times as necessary until it’s filled in and just slightly thicker than a real hair. The stroke will shrink a bit. As soon as you see a blue glow on the sides of your stroke, you’re definitely going too deep, and it’ll also be hard to place other strokes nearby.

   

Filling the strokes can be done in various ways, but the most important thing is that you are exactly within the stroke you’ve placed when you go through it again. This can be done with a smooth motion or by holding your blade at a 90-degree angle and moving very gently up and down through the channel. You’ll feel it when you’re in the right spot. Repeat this 2 to 3 times if necessary. Apply a small amount of pigment to your blade, and when you’re done, apply a layer of pigment over it, adding a bit of heat to the color if desired. Let this sit for a moment, but no longer than 5 minutes.

By Maike van Duppen